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Ten years ago, we did a
loop backpacking trip starting at Kennedy Meadows. On the last day
of that trip we encountered a couple of backpackers heading in. They were planning to go
off-trail to the Granite Dome area. I hadn't thought much of it at the time, but filed it
away.
Well, this year I was looking for something relatively short and without quotas. I
eventually decided on a trip to that Granite Dome area - in particular, to Iceland Lake.
This would be our first time hiking off-trail for any appreciable distance, but the route
looked reasonably easy to follow. I was mildly worried about the creek crossing to get
there, but there hadn't been a ton of snow the previous winter.
So, Friday morning we left the Bay Area around 9:15am and started the drive up.
We stopped briefly in Oakdale to pick up some sandwiches, which we ate after we got to
the Summit Ranger Station in Pinecrest. We described our route to the ranger and picked up
our permit (there are no quotas, but you are still required to get a permit). She
thought the creek was doable, but did warn about mosquitoes and wind.
We got to the Kennedy Meadows trailhead parking area around 1:30pm, then
started our hike around 2:15pm. There were 2 other backpackers starting out at the
same time as us, and we'd see them set up camp at Relief Reservoir later.
From the parking lot, you have to walk along the road for about 3/4 of a mile, through
the Kennedy Meadows resort. There is parking at the end of the road if you prefer,
if you want to pay the resort for the privilege. The walk is pretty flat, though.
Despite belong alongside the road, it's not bad, as there is little traffic (and it is
slow since there are a lot of people around).
We walked past the store and the end-of-road parking area, then started off on
the trail. It immediately climbs up to a water tower, then back down and
continues on to the vibrant green meadows. As I mentioned, we'd seen this all 10
years ago, on our previous trip. Though you tend to forget a lot of things over that amount of time.
The trail travels past another set of campers near the far end of the meadow.
Then there's a trailhead display and the climbing begins. Shortly there's a sign for
Emigrant Wilderness and you leave everything else behind...except for the horse poop.
One common complaint about this stretch of trail is that it's used by horses...a lot.
Of course I'm not a big fan of dodging it while hiking, but I don't think it's the
deal-breaker that some people think it is.
Kennedy Meadow
Summit Creek
The trail climbs relentlessly, crossing a bridge and then climbing some more as you
see waterfalls on either side. After another bridge, I didn't notice, but there are
apparently some switchbacks off to the right if you want some more gradual climbing.
We stayed on the main trail to the left, which climbs...less gradually.
Bridge over Summit Creek
Some of the several falls leading into Summit Creek
After passing some rusted machinery, we got our first glimpse of the reservoir and
dam. We then started descending parallel to the reservoir, high above it. I'd hoped
to use the same campsite we'd used 10 years ago, but I forgot that it required a
quarter mile hike on a side trail to reach. I had thought it'd be closer to the trail.
So we never found it; in any case, it sounded like there were other campers in that
area already.
Relief Reservoir
Relief Reservoir dam
Looking back up the descent next to the reservoir
Trail next to Relief Reservoir
We crossed a stream which was flowing over the trail, then started to fret about
finding a campsite. We were starting to run out of reservoir. We climbed up a
promising-looking hill, but it turned out to be too far from the water. However, when
we were up there, we did spy some potential sites further down, in from the trail. We
retraced our steps back to the trail, continued on a bit more, then tried to find that
area. Eventually we found some use trail and followed it to a nice site nestled in the
forest not too far from a basically private beach. There was even a campfire ring with
wood already set up, though we didn't use it.
Setting up camp
Beach near the campsite
Looking out at the beach
There were mosquitoes here, but not the worst we've seen. My kids were bitten a few times,
though I somehow managed to avoid them.
As we were getting our dinner ready, we saw 6 other hikers (and their 3 dogs) find some campsites
relatively nearby. They were separated from by us the thick forest, though.
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