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Yesterday had been longer and tougher than I had originally thought it would
be. I knew it would be long, but I think I had expected the 5+ miles (actually
more than 6 miles) of downhill to start the day would have been much
easier. Today, though, I knew would not be as long or hard (though there
was still the matter of about 1600 feet of climbing today). So I let
everyone sleep in a little bit today. We didn't get started until about 10:40am.
Today would be a tough day for me, personally, though. I developed blisters,
probably due to the heavy pack and long day the previous day. Also, Jean had
discovered that she could now fit all our garbage into one of the bear
canisters (we'd eaten enough food to clear out space). She gave that now
very light bear canister to Nathan. That, plus the fact that I was now
carrying Jared's bear canister for him, meant that my pack was now just as
heavy as it had been on the first day - if not heavier! I was not happy.
But I slogged through, vowing to distribute the weight a little more
equitably tomorrow.
The trail starts climbing immediately, though starting at a fairly gradual
rate. Early on, we passed a family of 4 coming in the opposite direction;
they had two young boys, probably just a bit older than ours. They were one
of the few kids I remember seeing on the trail.
Shortly after that, we ran into another
backpacker coming in the opposite direction.
We got to talking and it turns out he had read my web site. (If that's you,
feel free to write in and let me know how your trip went.) He was doing the
same trip as us, but in the opposite direction. He mentioned the waterfall
at the Evolution Lake outlet stream, so we made a note to check it out.
A little while after that, we were passed by a couple in the same direction.
Included in that couple was the man I'd seen at the trailhead on the first
day. He asked me about the missing trekking pole, but I said we were just
managing without it. They were going at a pretty steady clip. At the rate
they were going, I'm guessing they might have finished the trip in 5 days
instead of their intended 6. We never saw them again on the rest of the hike.
Evolution Creek
After about 2 miles of steady but gradual climbing (about 350 feet), we
reached the edge of McClure Meadow. I walked through a campsite at the
edge of the meadow and marveled at the view of the large meadow, but it
would get better. We continued up the trail, then found a spot to rest
just off the trail by the edge of the meadow. Forest cover blocks much of
the views of the meadow from the trail, so you really need to walk out a
bit to see it.
McClure Meadow
We put down our packs. I was the first to walk out into the meadow, and
said audibly, "wow!" I implored the rest of my family to come out and see
the view. They all in turn said "wow." We could see the vast expanse of the
meadow and look upstream at Evolution Creek. The scene is backed by the awesome
sight of Mt. Mendel, Mt. Darwin, Mt. Spencer, and others, looming thousands
of feet above the meadow. Well, you can see the pictures.
McClure Meadow
McClure Meadow
McClure Meadow
Several other groups of backpackers were in the area, as well, soaking in the
views. After a long break here, we returned to the trail and continued the
climb. We passed the ranger station; it sounded like the ranger was chopping
wood or perhaps doing some construction work. We left McClure Meadow behind,
to be followed by tiny Colby Meadow about a half mile later.
Colby Meadow, I think
The Hermit, I think
We rock-hopped across a stream, and then started the crux of the climb, a
series of relentless switchbacks climbing about 800 feet in total. About
halfway up this section the views started to open up, allowing us to look
back down at where we'd just come from. When we reached the top of the
switchbacks, we were in a different-looking world with more granite and
less trees, but still a little bit of climbing left to go.
View from the switchbacks
View from just above the switchbacks
Soon enough we reached Evolution Lake, at around 4:15pm. There were lots
of people here, most of them not appearing to be doing much of anything.
I think they were doing what our kids would now be doing - waiting for their
hiking partners to find a good campsite. We dropped our packs and started
exploring. Jean found a site near the outlet stream, close to the
waterfall the hiker had mentioned this morning, but I preferred to be
within sight of the lake itself. There aren't really any large sites, and not
a lot of sites with good wind protection. There are lots of sites exposed to
wind. Everyone appeared to be in the same boat as us, looking for a good
camp site. One pair of backpackers apparently decided they'd just throw
out the rule book and camped on the grass, right next to the trail (and
also too close to the water).
Mountains
Mountains near Evolution Lake
First view of Evolution Lake
Evolution Lake
We eventually found a decent-sized site that would fit our tent, though it
was fairly exposed to the wind. At least we probably had one of the best views
of any site, being high enough to have a great view of the lake and surrounding
mountains.
Northwestern shore of Evolution Lake
Northwestern corner of Evolution Lake
Evolution Lake
Evolution Lake
Evolution Lake
We got cleaned up, enjoyed dinner with a great view, and enjoyed the sunset.
We were in the tent by 9pm, and we could hear backpackers still coming in at
this late hour.
Evolution Lake at sunset
Evolution Lake at sunset
Evolution Lake at sunset
Evolution Lake at sunset
Evolution Lake at sunset
Evolution Lake at sunset
Evolution Lake at sunset
Moon over Evolution Lake
Evolution Lake after sunset
Trail north of Evolution Lake
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